
Here is a photo of the two Halloween themed fabric prints I purchased from Old Town Fabrics in Chillicothe, Ohio. I particularly like the 'bone-y' one. :)
I think I mentioned that I wanted to make a tool pouch from three of the fat quarters I bought earlier in the weekend. I have worked on the project over the past couple of days (sewing by hand:) and am finally finished. I thought I'd share here how I did this - at the risk of being terminally boring. Grin.
First, the concept:

I don't know if you can read Scribble and Math the way I can ... maybe you can see my (somewhat deficient) thumbnail drawing on the top of the left sheet above that shows what I had in mind. I wanted a boxy pouch with the top being formed by a zipper gusset that finished about 3" wide and 8" long (more on that size choice later:) ... the bottom being sewn to form the boxed base. Also I wanted a nice accent fabric band along the upper circumference of the pouch.
So, basic arithmetic jottings led me to decide on the following pieces to cut:
Lining and interfacing - 12" x 20" each
Front bottom - 12" x 14"
Accent for top - two pieces at 4" x 12"
Zipper mounts - Two pieces 1" x 3" and two pieces 8.5" x 3"
I used most of three fat quarters (one for bottom, one for accent, one for top zipper gusset and lining). I used #10 Sharps to sew with and Mettler thread (by default). So, here we go. Bear in mind that if there is an easy way and a hard way to do any particular task, I almost always think of the hard way first and the easy way eludes me until I'm done with the job. LOL!
First, I sewed the two accent pieces of fabric onto each end of the front bottom piece.

This photo shows the accent (orange dots on dark) print pinned on each end of the Zen Chic circles. Now I am sewing this all by hand - but you will most likely want to do it by machine (if you try this at home:). For those of you who have doubts about the strength of hand sewing - remember that all those elaborate, embellished and ruffle-covered ball gowns that Lady Pompadore and Marie Antoinette wore were sewn by hand. :)
I have two basic hand sewing stitches that I use for this kind of construction. One is what I call the utility running stitch - instead of using the simple running stitch which I expect most of you learned, each time I remove my needle from the fabric (after gathering up however many stitches my needle allows) I start the next set with a small backstitch - this introduces some elasticity in the seam and allows for wear and tear on the final object when in use. I use the utility running stitch when I am joining two layers of fabric together.
The second stitch I use for strength in construction is what I think of as a running backstitch. Instead of making a beautiful continuous row of stitches as with embroidered backstitch, I take each backward stitch about halfway toward the previous finished stitch in the row. Sometimes I overlap the stitches even, if I'm really worried about making a firm seam. This makes a very strong and elastic seam and will hold very well against tugging and usage (I'll demonstrate that soon:).
Here's what my outside looked like on each side after sewing:

Second, the interfacing I bought was a sew-in rather than fusible (if my Mom had an iron, nobody here knows where in heck it might be hidden - though I did find the ironing board:). After I seamed the accent bands to each end of the bottom fabric piece, I basted the interfacing to the back of this fabric - along the center (across the 12" width) and at each end - to hold the interfacing still and keep it from wiggling around while I sewed seams. I just used big stitches so the whole thing would behave like a single layer.

Next I got the lining piece arranged on the other side of this construction, right sides away from the interfacing, and basted it down along the center and about three inches away from each end.

Well, drat! Don't know where my brain was when I was cutting the lining piece but it was several inches too short. Sigh. I cut a compensating pieces of the orange batik and sewed it onto one end of the lining piece and _then_ basted the lining to the front/interfacing piece. You can skip this mistake step by cutting yours correctly. :)

Next I started working on the zipper gusset. I learned the method that I used here from Heather Kojan in a class at our recent modern guild retreat - mistakes are my own fumbling interpretation of what she taught, of course. :) I used a 14" long YLI polyester-toothed zipper.
I started by sewing the ends of the top of the zipper (where the zipper pull stops all the way up) together with a few stitches to keep them aligned. Then I folded the two 1" x 3" orange batik bits in half crosswise, then folded the ends into the center:

I sandwiched the top of the zipper tape (the end I had just basted together) into the middle of one of these little fabric bits that will make a tab ...

... and I sewed it together all the way through all the layers.

Then I laid out my zipper and measured the length to 8.5" from the fold in this orange tab. Using my rotary cutter and ruler, I cut the excess zipper off (carefully - do NOT unzip the thing at this stage 'cause your zipper pull will come right off).

Now fold up and sew on the second 1"x3" tab to the cut end. I kept the rest of the zipper tape to use as a pull on the side of my pouch (photo later).

To make the sides of the gusset, I first folded the two 3" x 8.5" in half longways:

On the zipper tape itself there was a heavier thread woven along parallel to the teeth and about 1/4" away. I lined up the folded edge of my long strips along this thread line and pinned it in place (being sure to align the ends of the folded strip with the ends of the tabs), then sewed a utility running stitch along the fold to attach the gusset to the zipper:


Here is a tidbit of info fyi about using a ruler to measure your fabric vs using your cutting mat to measure it. At one end of the sewn gusset, here is what I found:

See how the ends of the two side strips are very slightly shorter than the end tab? I measured the end tab pieces with my rotary ruler ... but cut the side tab pieces by the cutting mat marks. Slightly different, eh? I don't particularly care about the small discrepancy on this particular project (it is all going to vanish into the side seam) but it is good to note that you should stick to one system or the other but not mix them - can't get accurate results unless you use consistent measuring devices. :)
At this point, I looked at my zipper gusset and had an UH moment ... in my calculations, I just assumed that an 8" finished zipper would allow for enough clearance to put my 6.5" rotary cutting square into the pouch ... but had never actually measured the clearance. Hmmm. Better check that before I go any further:

Just barely! I lucked out on that one - never actually thought about the measurements, just assumed they'd be ok. Dumb! If that ruler had not fit, I'd've had to go buy a new zipper and make a whole new (longer) gusset. :P Make sure you check the tools you want to put in your pouch BEFORE you sew the darn thing. LOL.
Now that I had my zipper gusset made, I pinned it to the body sandwich of the pouch, centering it on one end against the accent fabric print:

You should have about 1.75" of space to each end of the orange gusset for the side seams of the boxy pouch. Place the gusset right sides toward the body with the zipper pull to the left side (if you are right handed). Pin back the orange lining layer so it doesn't get caught in this seam and sew the gusset to the body (or, if you are unobservant like me, sew the seam halfway then rip it out, fold back the lining and resew the seam correctly:).
NOTE that you should start and stop your seam at the 1/4" mark from each end rather than sew from raw edge to raw edge of the gusset - you need to be able to pivot at the seam line to sew the side seams of the box. Because I was sewing through the interfacing layer, I used a running backstitch for this seam. Press the seam allowances toward the accent fabric side.

Do the same thing to the other (opposite accent) end of the body.

You now have a kind of tube made of the pouch body/interfacing/lining piece sewn to each side of the zipper gusset section.
Make a short snip in the seam allowance of the body/interfacing piece at the 1/4" mark where the gusset attaching seam begins and ends so that you can swing the side piece of the pouch around and align it to the end of the gusset (where the little tabs are sewn). Sew this seam up to the center mark lines up with the zipper teeth on each side - but the front and back sides of the pouch body are not yet seamed together.
APOLOGIES - the photo I took of this step did not turn out. I could show you easily (in person) in a second but I have no way to take another photo. Sigh.
Once you have sewn the four half seams to create the boxed ends of the zipper gusset, you must sew the side seams. FIRST unpin the top of the lining and realign it with the top of the pouch outer body. (DON'T do what I did and sew part of the seam then have to tear it out, with real difficulty, and then resew it).
I used French Seams for my bag because I wanted it to be non-raveling inside for heavy use. The depth of my side seams was arbitrarily chosen by exactly where the sides fell in place against the zipper teeth. If you have never sewn French Seams, they are easy to do.
First, with WRONG sides together, pin and sew a 1/4" seam along each side of the pouch body, from gusset to bottom. I wanted to have a pull hold for my pouch so I set the leftover zipper tape into the left side seam (where the zipper pull falls when the zipper is closed):

After I sewed the first half of each French seam, I trimmed the seam allowance down a little bit (slightly more than 1/8" wide, finished). Then, open the zipper and turn the whole bag inside out, being sure to push out the bottom corners nice and square.
With right sides now together, sew the side seams again, enclosing the previously sewn seam allowances inside the new seam. For me, this second half of the seam ended up being about 1/2" deep. I used a running backstitch for these two seams (each side) for strength.

All that is left at this point is two things - to sewn the upper edge of the lining over the seam that joins the zipper gusset to the pouch body (thus enclosing those seam allowances) and to make the boxy corners for the pouch bottom.

Here I have turned down the upper raw edge of the lining and will hem it down to the gusset to cover the seam all the way around the bag.

Now to make the boxy bottom corners:

Fold the bottom corner of the bag, aligning the side seam with the center of the bottom, and pin it along a line that is 3" long (see the pins above?). Sew a strong seam along this pinned line to create a square corner. Repeat on the other side of the bottom.

I turned the sewn corners up toward the side seams and hemmed them down all along each of the two loose sides (I don't want my tools ending up stuck in some pouchy corner:). I could have cut the corners off and applied a Hong Kong binding to the seam allowance but my hands were getting tired. :) (I forgot to mention that in the process of sewing the second side seam I broke my needle in half - luckily I captured the little point before it flew into oblivion or ended up in my flesh). :P
At this point, my pouch is finished. I turned it right sides out and took photos:

Square bottom

Square top

Entire pouch with zipper pull on the side. I put all my tools inside the pouch and (metaphorically) patted myself on the back for creating something from an idea, by hand. :)
Tomorrow it's back to the lawyer-papers-errands grind.
:) Linda